Our leaving Marsh Harbor for Guana Cay marks our first day traveling home. Although only a couple of hours sail from Marsh, it is on the way home and it’s a place we missed on the way down.

We were going to leave early – around 8 a.m. for Guana Cay, but a thunder storm arrived during the night and continued into the morning. The sun finally came out about noon and so we went to the store again and got a few more provisions, since most of the other places we will be on our way home won’t have these things available, e.g. tomatoes, bananas, beer for $34/case, etc.

We ran into our new friends Tom and Sandy in the store. We’ve now been with them at Spanish Cay, Green Turtle Cay; Treasure Cay and now Marsh Harbor. They are a lot of fun. Pat and Tootie are apparently in Marsh now, too, but we aren’t going to be able to hook up with them since we are leaving.

Since we missed our mid-tide opportunity at 8 am, we couldn’t leave Marsh until about 2 pm. Although we had a really nice one tack sail here, we didn’t arrive until about 3:30. We went into Settlement Harbor and hooked up to a mooring ball, which was in the spot where we would have otherwise anchored. It’s a small harbor without a good anchoring for our Danworth anchor – grassy; so for the first time we grabbed a mooring ball. I was at the helm and had to maneuver around – mostly in reverse until we got to the right spot to pickup the mooring. Guess I am learning how to drive her.

We then took the dinghy to Ochid Bay Marina where we tied her up and walked into town, which is very, very small – 200 residents. We walked up over the Cay to Nippers – well known in the Abacos for their Sunday Pig Roast. This wasn’t Sunday and so it wasn’t crowded, but it is a beautiful spot overlooking a big beautiful beach on the Atlantic Ocean, with a couple of large rocks. We were told that one can go snorkeling right off the beach, a little further down, as reef is very close to shore. We hope to do that tomorrow. We had two drinks each and a plate of conch fritters; talked to the locals and told jokes!! It was fun. We got back to the boat around 7 pm and Doug made dinner with the steak he had bought the day before in Marsh Harbor.

Today the EarthWatchers, Doug and I and Diane and Charlotte took the 21’ inflatable out close to Rocky Point, which is an important feeding ground for dolphins to look for dolphins and whales. It was a little to rough in the ocean and so left Rocky Point and went to Gorda Cay, which is now a Disney cruise ship destination, Disney calls Castaways.

We snorkeled on a wreck that Diane says has been there for 20 years. It is in such shallow water and the water was so clean that looking at the wreck and fish was as if we were looking directly in the sunlight above the water. It was amazing!! And, I saw my first Triggerfish – gorgeous! We took quite a few photos at this spot and some good ones of the Triggerfish, who seemed to be showing off. There apparently is usually a nurse-shark that sleeps here, but she wasn’t here today.

After snorkeling, we ate the packed lunch we brought and went back home – pounding most of the way. I had to stand up to keep comfortable. Doug and I were on a tight schedule and so we rinsed off; checked out of the hotel, said our goodbyes; and drove back to Marsh Harbor. We got to the rental car place just in time and also got into Harbor View Marina before they locked their doors to pick up our dinghy.

The funny thing happened when we ran into Jack (who was taking care of EcoAdventurer) – he didn’t remember us!! He had told us before that he had alzheimers – but he said he was on some miracle medicine. Anyway, first he didn’t remember us and then he said he hadn’t checked on our boat!! This was after he insisted that we let him to do…amazing. But, luckily, she was fine. We were tired so we went to Curly Tails for dinner – kind of expensive but tasty.

We went ashore to Lynard and following the suggestion of one of the partiers at Little Harbor, followed a path to the ocean, where lots of people had done beach art from trash that had washed up onto the beach. One installation was called One Shoe Cay; another: Fisher. Doug left his own mark by putting together an art piece that was really cool and also one that stood out from the rest. This part of Lynard Cay is very beautiful and interesting.

Around 10:30 am, we sailed to Marsh Harbor, picked up a rental car at 3 pm and drove to Sandy Point, after leaving EcoAdventurer anchored out in the harbor with friends – Jack and Judy watching her. We left our dinghy with their boat, Tenex, which was at Harbor View Marina nearby. Jack said he would check our anchor for us twice a day – morning and night to make sure she was okay. We stopped along the way to Sandy Point, looking for the special Bahamian Parrots that nest underground in caves; but didn’t see any.

We got to Oasias (our hotel) and after checking in and carrying our bags to the room; we walked across the street to the dolphin/whale research center, which doubled as accommodations for the EarthWatch participants as well as the researchers. Dr. Diane Claridge and Charlotte Dunn live there full time as it is their home. They welcomed us with open arms and said we could eat all of our meals with them, including dinner tonight, which Charlotte had already invited us to have with them.

There were five participants in the EarthWatch group: Mark, 39, from Holland; Catalin, 26, from Hungary (although she is now a nanny in England); Ruth, about 45, from Kansas; Alie, 19, from Massachusetts; and Don from Texas, who is 85 years old! They are quite a diverse group but also seem to get along well! Besides Diane and Charlotte, Kia and Stephanie (in their twenties) also live at the house and are part of the marine mammal study group. Edward, a high school student, lives nearby, and works part-time for the group.

Dinner was delicious – two of the Earthwatchers had the job of cooking for the night. After dinner, Diane gave a talk about the marine mammal survey with a slide show, which was an introduction to the whole group. She was waiting for us to be there to make the introduction.

After watching a small boat with two people use a fishing net to try and catch some fish off Lynard’s shore with no success and another guy snorkeling off of a sailboat anchored near us, trying to spear fish, with no success, we motored to The Bight of Old Robinson, anchored as close as we could to the creeks and crannies of the Bight and took the dinghy in to explore the Bight. We took lunch, snorkel gear, binoculars and cameras.

I snorkeled around first but only saw sand, grass and lots of sea anemones. When I got back into the dinghy for a break, Doug had already had eaten his portion of our picnic lunch!! So, then I had a granola bar and soda and we floated the dinghy into a spot with current between two rocks and found a beautiful coral garden with little fish. We just leaned over the side of the dinghy with our masks on – and me with snorkel and mask and enjoyed the fabulous view. We then took photos, but unfortunately they didn’t do justice to what our eyes had seen. The water was so shallow that the little blue neons were hiding behind coral to keep away from my face!!

After snorkeling we got back into EcoAdventurer and motored to Tom Curry’s Point again; anchored and dinghied into Little Harbor. We went directly to Pete’s Pub, arriving around 2:30. Doug was hoping for more food – lunch or appetizers, but it was more of a drinking place with lots boaters drinking blasters, which were ½ rum and ½ juice. They were part of the Marsh Harbor Yacht Club – only $100 to join it and you get to party a lot!! We met and hung out with them for an hour or so; but we didn’t just want to drink for another 1 ½ hours until dinner, so we left. One of the couples we met owned W.A. Miller real estate and were members of Columbia Country Club in Chevy Chase. They had a 70’ power boat anchored at Lynard Cay and had invited us to join them later, but Doug didn’t like them (they bragged a lot) and didn’t want to go, so we just hung out on our boat for the night. I was just curious about the lifestyles of the rich and famous J.

Left Marsh Harbor around 11:00 and sailed first to one anchorage at Bridges Cay, which wasn’t protected enough so we tried to anchor outside of Little Harbor at Tom Curry’s Point at low tide, but after almost running aground and then after feeling the ocean swells, decided to go back to Lynard Cay, which was close by, and a much better anchorage, and spent the night there.

The wind was down to 10 – 15 knots so after Doug took the dinghy into the resort and gave the Baker his $3 along with a thank-you note, we left.

The channel was very narrow leaving the harbor and I steered EcoAdventurer too close to the green marker and we ran aground. First I put her in reverse, which had no effect, and then I gave the sturdy diesel a log of thrust and turned to port and she lifted off the sand and we continued. Whew!! Just what we need when we are in a hurry and have to be somewhere at a particular time, which is a no-on a sailboat. I heard a sailor say, “you can figure out where you are going to be but not when you will be there.” You need to sail when the wind and weather are right. Some people have waited up to a month to sail off from one place to their destination.

Anyway, we ended up motoring all of the way because the mainsail got stuck coming out. We soon realized that is was because of the SSB antenna, which is a little rope, had been tied to the line that pulls the mainsail out. Rather than fix this in the middle of a strong breeze, we just continued motoring on.

We got to Marsh Harbor, anchored fairly close to the dinghy dock in 9 ½ feet of water (our draft is 6’2”) and took the dinghy into shore and parked it in the shallow end of the dinghy dock and walked to the FRIENDS office – about 3 blocks away. While waiting for the school bus to arrive and d’Shan Maycock, the Education Director, we talked to two scientists who were using the FRIENDS office temporary for their research. Both were professors. One was a bird man and the other studying mammals. I asked the mammal expert what furry things resided on Great Abaco Island and he said, “Other than rats, that aren’t native, there are none.” I said, “then what are you studying”? And, he said “bats. Bats are the only wild mammal on the island.” He continued, “they live in caves mostly, and most of them are insect eaters, although there are some fruit eating bats that are fairly large, here too. I think he said they were about a foot long. But, he added, “Not as large as the 3 foot fruit eating bats in SE Asia.” The other scientist was studying bird fossils that they were finding in the Blue Holes and caves around Great Abaco Island. There were fossils of two extinct birds he had found recently – one was a caracara.

On the field trip, D’Shan told the students that the event that created a strong enough interest to bring scientists from all over the world here to the Bahamas, was the huge tortoise shell that was recently found in one of Great Abacos Blue Holes. The tortoise was a large land turtle – not the sea turtles that do live in the seas around the island. No one knew that these tortoises ever lived here before. Since that exciting find, they have found fossils of crocodiles, and a number of other creatures, some of which are extinct.

Doug and I got on the school bus with about 30 10th grade high school students, their teacher, a teacher’s aide and D’Shan plus the bus driver. We drove into Abaco Camp, with it’s Caribbean pine forest of very young pine trees, because the place used to be a logging camp. Once we arrived at the Sea of Abaco, the pines dwindled and the mangroves took over. We got off the bus at the sea and walked along a road parallel to it. D’Shan explained that there are 3 types of Mangroves: Red, White and Black Mangroves. The students thought there were four but she explained that the 4th is Buttonwood and although associated with Mangroves, is actually not one.

As it turns out, D’Shan got her degree in Environmental Science at the University of Maryland, Eastern Shore. We found this out when she was showing the students the remains of a blue crab that most likely an Egret had devoured. She said, “Blue crabs also live in the Chesapeake Bay in the US, where I went to college.” She added, “We went to Ocean City, Maryland and ate these blue crabs steamed with Old Bay seasoning.” I said, “You did? That’s the beach we go to – that and Rehoboth Beach Delaware.”

D’Shan was very sharp and very nice as well. She is married with three boys. Her oldest, an 11 year old, just won first prize at the Science Fair by describing how building a road through the mangroves (without using culverts) stops the flow of water from one side to the other, drying up the water on one side and not allowing the fish populations from going back and forth, which has been shown to reduce the number and varieties of fish. D’Shan had told us the same thing on the field trip. Her son had even purchased two fish from a lab and has simulated how the negative environmental impact would occur. The fish use the mangroves as a nursery for their babies that feed upon the algae around the base of the mangroves.

At one point, while we were at the beach, one of the girls found an oyster-like shell and pulled it off from the ancient coral sticking out of the sand. She was excited and said they use this creature raw in salads, like conch salads. She borrowed Doug’s swiss army-knife and cut the creature out and ate it right there, on the spot. Another girl was appalled and burst out laughing. Most of the students said they ate seafood, but one boy said he didn’t eat any seafood! From this discussion you could tell there was quite a difference in culture even among these public school students.

One of the students, a boy of 15, walked with Doug and me and talked to us. I asked him what he wanted to be when he was older. He immediately replied, “a doctor.” Then he added, “or maybe working as a choreographer, or possibly in culinary arts.” It reminded me of when my daughter, April, was asked the same question when she was only about 8, replied “a lawyer, or a cashier!” Then, he proceeded to describe how one prepares all sorts of meals – conch salad, land crab and dumpling, and peas and rice. He described how to prepare these things in great detail. I said, “you must be hungry. I always talk about food, when I’m hungry.” Most of the students were going to KFC but he said, “I’m going to subway instead,” and then patted his flat stomach, implying that he wanted to stay trim. The trip was fun and informative.

We arrived back at the dinghy dock to find the dinghy sitting on mud!! It was low tide and apparently a very low tide. Sometimes the tide is below normal. A man who spends his time helping boaters get in and out of their dinghy for tips, helped Doug carry the entire dinghy with motor across the floating dock to the water side. He earned his tip and we were glad he was there. Then we dinghed out to EcoAdventurer in the harbor to find that it, too, was sitting on the sand!! But it was sitting straight up – not leaning – we figured because of our fin keel. An hour later, we were floating again as the tide came up. This is the 2nd time we were on the sandy bottom today with the big boat and once with the dinghy. Guess there is a lesson to be learned in all of this.

The night was quiet without much wind, but I kept waking up at the slightest noise waiting for the Gale to hit. This morning the wind had picked up but only to 15 kts or so, and it was partly sunny. It is 11:30 a.m. now and the wind has picked up to about 20 -25 knots of true wind; and it’s beginning to rain. Doug just let out a little more anchor line.

He also had a really good shower on the boat after we ran the engine for ½ hour to charge the batteries, which also heated the water and gave it more pressure, which is what we’ve been missing for the past few weeks. Now we know how to get a proper shower. I’ve been only taking showers when we are in Marinas; although I’ve been rinsing off the salt water in the boat’s shower after snorkeling.

This a.m Doug made me a fried egg sandwich on 5 small rounds of a baquette with thin slices of fried turkey; and I had two cups of English Breakfast tea with milk and equal. I think he had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for breakfast.

I read several chapters of The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency (the first book in the series) aloud to Doug, which is our 2nd book together. In the morning I tend to read aloud to him and he reads aloud to me in the evenings – just before going to bed. This way we can enjoy the same book at the same time and discuss it as we go along. Together we did finish reading The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nighttime by Mark Haddon, which we loved!! I have also read other books – usually after Doug falls asleep – I stay awake for some time longer – maybe 15 minutes – maybe 2 hours longer, depending upon how tired I am. I read Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons; John Grisom’s Testament; Running with Scissors, which I loved; Revenge of the Middle Aged Woman; The English Patient by Michael Ondaatje, which was also excellent! And Rotten Lies by Charlotte and Aaron Elkins, a light murder mystery, which was entertaining and written by a collaboration of two authors – unusual!

Doug just finished scrubbing and drying the entire bath/shower – it’s really clean now. We were going to go into the resort to buy bread, ice and find the library so I can get more books, but if the wind keeps building, we aren’t going anywhere. It gusted up to 30 knots a minute ago – which is about 35 mph.

We just noticed a sailboat having trouble in the harbor. They were trying to anchor without success in this 30-knot wind and sloppy seas. After many unsuccessful attempts and almost running into other boats, Doug decided to go help them. So, he put on his foul weather gear and took off in the dinghy. Just as he got to them, they cut their anchor line, so he grabbed the stern of their boat and they motored off to a more protected area in the harbor. Doug, seeing they were okay, went to the grocery store to get a few things…BUT he didn’t have his wallet!!! He didn’t get groceries (they wouldn’t let him leave his coveted swiss army knife as collateral). However the baker let him have a large cinnamon roll on credit. He checked with the Canadians on the boat again and some friends of theirs had already rescued their anchor (with a grappling hook) and had taken it to them. They had already hooked it back up and were using it. Amazing!!

Then, we saw a catamaran trying to leave the harbor (mistake) and were being pushed into the fuel dock next to the channel. It’s going to be much much rougher out of this protected harbor and so I hope they survive. We have no idea why they felt they had to leave – a medical emergency – a need to catch a flight out of Marsh Harbor? Who knows, but I’m glad it wasn’t us.

We’ve decided to try to sail to Marsh Harbor tomorrow a.m. and go on the FRIENDS field trip if the winds are down – it’s only 2 hours from here. Tonight more episodes of the #1 Ladies Detective Agency.

We had such a quiet night in Treasure Cay! After breakfast Doug started working on repairing the mainsail. First he took the whole sail down and got out the sail repair kit we bought in Florida at West Marine. He spent a couple of hours re-stitching it where it has come apart at the seam. He said it was now stronger than before because the thread was stronger. That’s a relief that we could fix it ourselves right away. While he worked, I started working on this log that I haven’t gotten around to until now.

While Doug was working on the sail our new friend Robbie stopped by on his proper dinghy with a big motor that he had just brought over from Green Turtle Cay for “just a dinghy ride” he said. He is the unofficial mayor of Green Turtle and really gets around – a good person to know. Pat and Tootie from Keltic Kat, a sailing Cat Boat, also stopped by to see how we were doing on their way to the beach. We’ll get together with them tomorrow as they have a dinner date with another Canadian they know who has a condo here. It’s amazing how many people we have gotten to know here in the Abacos that we keep running into. And, many of them have helped us out with a variety of things.

After Doug finished repairing the sail and had gotten it back up on the mast and furled in, we took the dinghy into the resort here at Treasurer Cay. It is a beautiful place, with a 3 mile long white sand beach in a half moon shape. We walked to the beach, but it was a little too cold to go in the water – about 68 degrees with a light breeze. We talked to a couple on the beach, who had just arrived on a plane this afternoon. They took our picture because we looked like we were “so much in love,” she said and then they called us over. We also went to the small grocery store. Although small, it had everything you would need – very upscale for the Bahamas. And, we made a reservation for dinner at the Spinakker restaurant, at the marina, which was very elegant and large. We then went on a dinghy ride around the marina to see if we could find Sandy and Tom, other friends whom we left at Green Turtle Cay when we ran off the Marsh Harbor to get my medicine. And, luckily they were at the sailboat dock! We visited with them a bit and then Pat and Tootie also came by and so the six of us had cocktail and appetizers on LaGentile for an hour or so, before Doug and I went to the Spinakker and Tootie and Pat left for their friend’s condo.

Dinner was delicious – it was prime rib night – $25/person plus drinks. We sat next to the couple who had taken our photo on the beach earlier and had a lively conversation with them over dinner. They invited us to join them in their 2 bedroom/2 bath condo if the windy weather bounced us around too much. They were really insistent on it, but we aren’t sure we would leave the boat bouncing around by itself – the anchors might draw loose, etc.

Marsh Harbor this a.m is cloudy and windy – about 68 degrees. Turned on a couple of burners on the gas stove to heat up the salon and Doug made us French toast for breakfast with fried turkey slices. We do eat well!!

We listened to the Cruiser’s Net on channel 68 of our VHF radio from 8:15 to 9:15. On it an announcement was made about an 8 hp 4-stroke motor for sale. After the Cruiser’s Net finished, Doug called “Johansan” to ask about the motor. They wanted to show it to him, so he took the dinghy and motored over to them (they were on a sailboat near us in the harbor). They wanted $900 for it, which was a good price for being only 2 years old, BUT it has a motor problem – after running it at a good speed for 5 minutes, it faded out a bit. There was a fuel issue.

The sun has started to come out – a mix of sun and clouds. Doug went to shore with a grocery list and brought things back to the boat: bananas, cigs for me, 6 bottles of wine and Nutrasweet (not exactly health food J).

We were finally able to leave at 1:30 for Treasure Cay – which we realized was low tide – oops! With our 6’3” draft, we have to be extremely careful not to run aground. After we pulled up the anchor, we slowly meandered out of the harbor. At one point the depth finder said 6’8”!! Yikes – only 5 inches of water under our big boat!! But, luckily the water got gradually deeper and we never hit the bottom or got stuck. That is the shallowest water we’ver been in – that is since we did run aground when we arrived in the Bahamas on 12/24!!

Once we were out of the harbor, the winds picked up and so did the seas. Although we were going North and the wind was from the North we decided to sail – close to the wind. Doug put up the main sail reefed in about 10% and the headsail. We sailed along fine on a preferred course for 1 hour and then had to tack to avoid some shallow water. The next heading was a little more difficult because when the sails were full we were healing a lot and when we tried to flatten out the boat a bit, the headsail would start flapping. We reefed the mainsail in 50% as the wind built up and when the wind hit 32 kts, we decided to bring the sails in completely and just motor. During this process a seam came apart on our headsail – about 10 inches. The wind was whipped at 30 kts and we had trouble staying pointed into the wind so that we could roll the sail in on our electric roller furler. We motored the rest of the way into Treasurer Cay.

Thanks goodness we got out of the rough weather into this very quiet protected harbor. During our anchoring, which was difficult because of the wind, Pat from Keltic Kat came over and offered some advice. We hadn’t seen Keltic Kat since we left Green Turtle, and I appreciated his advice. I was backing up too fast as Doug was putting in the anchor. And, he helped place our 2nd anchor out on the side – 45 degrees off the main anchor. We are ready for the big blow now I hope.

They invited us to their boat after dinner, but Doug was really wiped out after the rough sailing and frustrated anchoring. So, we just ate a light dinner and he went to sleep and I read “The English Patient” for a couple of hours before turning in. The water and wind were so quiet here, I forgot I was on a boat. What a change from this afternoon.

We were both a little slow today after partying last night. We were planning on going to Treasure Cay today, but we also wanted to go shopping in town and to visit with Friends of the Environment (FRIENDS). By the time we got going it was 12:45 and we needed to get going by around 1:30 to make it to Treasurer Cay before dark and so we decided to just take it easy and stay another night in Marsh Harbor.

We went into town and after shopping, I met with the folks at FRIENDS. They were enthusiastic about Meaningful Travel giving them free publicity and promoting their conservation efforts. They invited us to a lecture the next day by scientists re: findings of ancient animal remains and fossils found in the creeks and blue holes around the Abacos. But since we had already delayed our leaving by one day, we declined.

We were also invited by the education director of FRIENDS to go on a field trip on Monday with 2 high school classes to the Mangroves. We need to be there by 10:15 and I would really like to do this, BUT there are Gale winds predicted on Sunday going into early Monday. We are going to Treasure Cay to be in a more protected area for the big blow and so I don’t think we’ll make it back by Monday at 10:00 a.m. unless the weather changes. It’s about 2 1/2 hours from Treasure back to Marsh Harbor. If the wind is down, we could make it if we left around 7:30 a.m.

I also called Diane Claridge this a.m. who is the professor handling the EarthWatch Institute Dolphin and Whale expedition and research group we will be covering for Meaningful Travel. Because of the location of their research facility, we won’t be able to take EcoAdventurer there – no protection or harbor to stay in. So, we will be renting a car probably next Thursday and driving an hour to Sandy Point, staying in a cottage and spending a couple of days with the group.

FRIENDS also are helping protect the Bahamian Parrot. On our way to Sandy Point, we will be able to take a look at some of these endangered Parrots. They are really cute!!